St Helens to Launceston
So many fish and so few days
07.08.2009
16 °C
At 0600hrs we awoke in the sumptuous surroundings of our Ocean View Executive Room in the Tidal Resort - complete with a three seater Jacuzzi (rather confusing when we had double room– the mind boggles)!
We were oblivious to the fact that there was a big Irish dancing contest on later in the day in St Helens. Above us was the sound of the local ‘Michael Flatley’ wannabe warming up wearing a pair of deep sea divers’ boots!
In between his bursts of manic dance activity in his divers’ boots; he was also shouting out the words to the old classic ‘Young girl, get out of my mind’ by Gary Pucket and the Union Gap – which has just reached number 1 in Tassie!
So as you can imagine we were out of the ‘Bates Motel’ and on’th road to Launceston pretty early – especially when our Ocean view resembled a peep across Hollingworth Lake on a damp Shrove Tuesday!
I will confess to a 0.5 VM at this stage – a combination of the noise pollution from the leaden footed dancing neighbour and the disappointing view!
However by 0930hrs we were in the dense bush and rain forest - high up in the mountains en route to Launceston – the steaming tree ferns and huge eucalyptus trees interspersed by dead wombats’ was very atmospheric! By now the VM had completely abated.
Apparently St Helens is the largest town and holiday destination on Tasmania's East Coast - its economy is dependent on fish, timber and tourism. The town prides itself in its warmth and sunshine, due to a microclimate produced by surrounding hills and warm ocean currents. Consequently St Helens is warmer than Melbourne in winter and enjoys an average of 22 °C in February.
In contrast our destination of Launceston is located at the juncture of the North Esk, South Esk, and Tamar rivers. It is the second largest city in Tasmania after the state capital Hobart. Settled by Europeans in March 1806, Launceston is one of Australia's oldest cities and is home to the largest selection of nineteenth century buildings in Australia.
For the ornithologists amongst you (come on Papa T don’t fight it) – en route we saw several Australian Bustards and Wedge-tailed Eagles!
On our arrival in Launceston after some 3 ½ hour drive, we went for a hike up the Cataract George! The earliest recorded visit to this area was made by settler William Collins in 1804 when exploring the Port in the ship ‘Lady Nelson’.
He was particularly impressed by the South Esk and its cataract and wrote; "Upon approaching the entrance I observed a large fall of water over rocks, nearly a quarter of a mile up a straight gully between perpendicular rocks about 150 ft high. The beauty of the scene is probably not surpassed in the world".
I can assure you that nothing has changed in over 200 years and the 'beauty of the scene' is still very impressive in 2009!
Next stop was a Hallams Waterfront Restaurant - voted Tasmanian Sea Food Restaurant of the year 2009!
If you recall we had already had a massive dilemma when we went into the sea food restaurant in Hobart - when were faced with a choice of 12 different fish (all we really wanted was fish and chips).
So this time we studied the menu outside in great detail and picked a local dish which appeared uncomplicated – two flat head and chips!
On entering we were seated and handed a menu which listed the following fish: Bastard Trumpeter, Black Jewfish
Sooty Grunter, Bridled Leatherjacket, Chinaman Leatherjacket, Crocodilian Longtom, Dusky Flathead and Tasmanian Trumpeter!
Unfortunately the Flathead was off the menu – but as a result of being institutionalised for 32 years I could not ask for any of the other fish in a packed restaurant for fear of professional standards swooping in - so I opted for garlic bread and chips (it’s the future)!
Life is so much easier in the UK when it’s a choice between cod or haddock!
Anyway on a positive note Malcolm’s paper bag flew out of the window today and we were forced to buy a road map – apparently tomorrow we are off to Strahan via Cradle Mountain!
FYI I have uploaded a map of Tassie if you want to get an idea of the geography!










(To be read in the Terry Thomas voice ripped off by that Paul Whitehouse in the Fast Show character whose name eludes me): Me in deep bush by 0930 in St Helens with a dusky flathead...with my reputation...xx
07.08.2009 by Phil_K